- Package Details
The primary route on Mt. Lhotse is via Everest's South Col. but by 1955, despite the activity on Mt. Everest, Lhotse was the highest unclimbed peak in the world. It was first climbed by the Swiss duo of F. Luchsinger and E.Reiss in 1956 on the West Face. The South Face of Mt. Lhotse though attempted many times was successfully climbed only in 1984 by a Czech.
In the Expedition of Mt. Lhotse, Lhotse Base Camp is located beside the Khumbu Glacier, same as Everest Base Camp. The section during the climb which has been unanimously declared the most dangerous is the Khumbu Icefall. This beautiful massif also holds immense promise as it is little developed and offers fascinating opportunities.
Mt. Lhotse Face and Route:
The commercial route is from its north side via Khumbu icefall sharing its length with Everest south route. The south face is one of the most impressive walls in Himalayas. The first expedition from the south side was Yuogo Slavian leading by A.Kunaver. They selected the left side of the wall but they manage to only get to 8100 meters. Three police expedition tried to climb through the left wall in 1985, 1987 and 1989, the highest point they reach was 8300 meters.
The western flank of Lhotse is known as the Lhotse Face. Any climber bound for the South Col on Everest must climb this 1,125m wall of glacial blue ice. This face rises at 40 and 50 degree pitches with the occasional 80 degree bulges. Two rocky sections called the Yellow Band and the Geneva Spur interrupt the icy ascent on the upper part of the face.
The south face was finally climbed in 1990 by Russian expedition few months after Cesen's climb. They describe the wall as impossible to be climbed by a single person.
The route is technically a strenuous trekking route with a little objective danger once past the Khumbu icefall, apart of few crevasses and seracs bridged by ladders, couple short ice cliffs around camp 3 and rock sections protected with fixed lines. There is an obvious danger of high altitude sickness complications and changeable, unpredictable mountain weather.
The Khumbu Icefall is a steep glacier with obvious implication of large crevasses and treacherous unstable seracs making navigation complicated and riddled with high objective danger of falling ice. This is the most dangerous part of the climb. At the beginning of the climbing period, climbing Sherpa set the route through the icefall installing ladders across crevasses and along vertical seracs ice walls for efficient and easy climbing. These arrangements make climb of the Khumbu ice fall possible, efficient and relatively safe especially early morning before the sunrise, when the ice structure is well frozen. Khumbu ice fall is very dangerous in the afternoon due to its western aspect.
Camp 1 (6065m) is located on the top of Khumbu icefall; it is a desolate and exposed place mainly used as rest and transition location on the way to camp 2 (6750m). The glacier between camp 1 and 2 flattens but there are still large crevasses close to camp 1, which are also fixed with ladders.
Camp 2 is located in a lateral moraine at the bottom of west ridge. It is a very safe and sheltered location with tremendous views on Lhotse. All companies set-up their main climbing camp for the duration of climbing period with tents for individual climbers, the kitchen and dining tents. Camp 2 is main acclimatization camp and the base for camp 3 acclimatization climb and the final summit attempt.
Camp 3 (7100m) is located on small ledge on the Lhotse wall. One has to cross the glacier to the right side before 40deg 600m climb on the compact snow field. The route is safe with couple of short less then 3m ice cliffs, which climbing Sherpas set up with fixed ropes.
Camp 4 (7920m) located near South Col is the last camp; it is easily accessible by majority of climbers without supplementary oxygen. There are two rock sections to navigate before camp 4: Yellow Bands, interlayer marble, phyllite and semi-schist rocks and Geneva Spur, an anvil shaped rib of black rocks; they are again set-up with fixed ropes.
In the Base Camp…………..
Kiwi Sherpa adventure trekking will provides very professional, helpful and friendly service from Kathmandu to the ABC and during the climb. Our objective is to provide a good quality, helpful, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize summit opportunity.
Our cooks and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24hrs a day.
We provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients both with full board and base-camp service. In the base camp we also provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff.
We provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, solar panels to charge your batteries and UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.
Our Leader and camp manager as well as climbing Sherpas have an extensive experience of multiple climbs to 8000m peaks. They will ensure cooperation with other companies and Base Camp organization. The Base Camp is a cooperative to ensure contribution from all operators to the task of route fixing to ensure the safety of climbers from ABC to the summit.
Lhotse Expedition Full Board Service:
For full board service additional……
We provide personal tent and food with the climbing Sherpa, who will prepare appropriate meals. If we have 7 clients in the expedition we also will provide a cook for the group and intermediate facility at camp 2 (6750m); this will include personal tents for full board clients, kitchen and dining tents and the toilet facility. We provide meals while our clients are in camp 2.
We provide a personal climbing Sherpa guide to help the clients to reach the summit. Personal climbing Sherpa will set up camp 3 and camp 4 including food provisions, fuel and oxygen and will guide and assist the client on the summit day. We provide the climbing Sherpa with appropriate radio communication to Camp 2 and Base Camp from Camp 3, 4 and the climbing route.
Kiwi sherpa representative will meet you at Airport and then transfer you to the Hotel for overnight accommodation as booked. (1300M)
Day 02: Preparation and Briefing for Departure to Everest Region
This day we will briefing about expedition, documentation and last minute shopping and preparation for departure to the trekking and climbing route. You must bring -
We fly to Lukla from Kathmandu at early morning, take breakfast in Lukla and Trek (4hrs) to Phakding (2652m) where you get teahouse or lodge accommodation in full board basis.
Day 04: Phakding to Namche Bazaar Trek.
Today we trek (6hrs) from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3440m) through colorful Khumbu villages where you get teahouse or lodge accommodation in full board basis.
Day 05: Rest day for acclimatization
In rest day but we can go day hike to famous Everest View Hotel (3800m) (3hrs) to catch a glimpse of Mt. Everest and back to Namche visit Hilary and Sherpa museum. You get teahouse or lodge accommodation in full board basis.
Day 06: Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche Trek
we trek (5hrs) from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche (3850m) visit significant Buddhist monastery lodge accommodation where you get teahouse or lodge accommodation in full board basis.
Day 07: Tyangboche to Dingboche Trek
Today we trek (4-5hrs) from Tyangboche to Dingboche (4350m) catch glimpses of Lhotse and Ama Dablam where we get teahouse or lodge accommodation in full board basis.
Day 08: Dingboche to Lobuche Trek
We trek (4hrs) from Dingboche to Lobuche (5018m) where we get teahouse or lodge accommodation in full board basis.
Day 09: Rest for acclimatization at Lobuche
Here is the day for rest and acclimatization at Lobuche for further trekking.
Day 10: Lobuche to Gorakshep Trek
We trek (3hrs) from Lobuche to Gorakshep (5170m) where we get teahouse or lodge accommodation in full board basis.
Day 11: Gorakshep to Base camp Trek.
Today we trek (2hrs) from Gorakshep to Lhotse Base camp (5200m). we will have preparation for tented camping in Base camp for further expedition. Here you get full board services.
Day 12-56: Lhotse Summit Climbing
These days are the major climbing days for us to ascend the summit of most awaited Mt. Lhotse. After some day’s acclimatization and exercise you will be taken to the 2nd camp to be closer to the summit of (8,516m) where you will be provided food for high altitude. We are allowed to trek from camp 1 to camp 2 or vice versa for more practice and acclimatization. Finally we wish for your success to reach in the summit. Here you get full board service with tented camp accommodation.
Day 57: Trek down from base camp via Lobuche to Dingboche
After a successful summit of Lhotse (hopefully), you will be taken back to Dingboche (4260m) via Lobuche (5218) from Everest Base Camp where you get teahouse or lodge accommodation in full board basis.
Day 58: Dingboche to Tengboche trek
we are descending toward Tengboche (3860m) by trek (4hrs) from Dingboche on this day where we get teahouse or lodge accommodation in full board basis.
Day 59: Tengboche to Namche Bazaar Trek
From Tengboche we are descending down to Namche bazaar (3440m) after 4 hrs trek where you get teahouse or lodge accommodation in full board basis.
Day 60: Namche Bazaar to Lukla Trek.
Today is our last day for Trek (7hrs) from Namche Bazaar to Lukla (2840m) where you get teahouse or lodge accommodation in full board basis.
Day 61: Fly Back to Kathmandu.
Today you fly from Lukla to Kathmandu same about 35 minute and we transfer to your booked Hotel with BB Plan accommodation.
Day 62: The Leisure day and sightseeing
This day we take you for sightseeing in and around Kathmandu (Hanumandhoka Durbar Square, Swoyambhunath, Boudhanath, and Pashupatinath) and Farewell-Celebration dinner with local typical cultural experience in Restaurant.
Day 63: Transfer for Final Departure
To quote you with an exact price we need number of persons in your group and also mode of transportation(by plane or by bus).Please contact us with these details and any other inquiries regarding this expedition then we get back to you on the cost.
1. Airport / Hotel / Airport pick up & drop by private car / van / bus.
2. Standard twin sharing accommodation hotel in Kathmandu breakfast included as per itinerary
3. Guided city tour in Kathmandu by private car / van / bus.
4. Full board meal during the trek and camping at base camp, prepared by our cook with hot Tea & coffee.
5. All base camp and Advance base camp camping gears (We will provide fully water proof dining tents, kitchen gears, dining table, chairs, toilet tents, shower tent at the base camp and advance base camp)
6. High quality tents for all camps.
7. Insurance for all Nepali staffs and porters including helicopter rescue provision.
8. Boiled and purify drinking water for the trek and at base camp.
9. Expedition permits
10. Liaison officer and his round trip flight, insurance, wages, expedition equipments etc.
11. High altitude climbing food, fuel, Gas above base camp (you are also advised to bring some high altitude food yourselves)
12. Guide, cook, porters, helpers up to base camp
13. Climbing Sherpas (1 member = 1 Sherpa Ratio on climbing day)
14. A well stocked first aid and medical kit sufficient to counter any possible mountaineering ailments, from headache to serious injury.
15. Oxygen equipment for medical use only.
16. A portable hyperbaric chamber (Gamow bag)
17. Emergency communications on the mountain and satellite communications link for helicopter evacuation.
18. Oxygen 7 bottles per team climber and 4 bottles per Sherpa.
19. Mask regulator
20. Sightseeing/Monument entrance fees in Kathmandu.
21. Welcome dinner for members in Kathmandu.
22. Power supply at Base Camp for charging electronics (solar and generator backup)
24. Flight cost from Kathmandu - Lukla - Kathmandu including airport departure tax at both airport.
25. All our government taxes and vat.
1. Lunch and dinner while in Kathmandu.
2. Travel Insurance which cover emergency Rescue and Evacuation. (Kiwi Sherpa strongly recommends that you purchase a Global Rescue membership to protect yourself).
3. International airfare and airport departure tax.
4. Nepal entry visa fee (Tourist Visa with Multiple Entry for 90 days can be obtained by paying US $ 100 in Kathmandu airport up on your arrival. You will also require 2 passport size photos You can easily extend the visa if require.)
5. Items of a personal nature such as alcoholic drinks, cold drinks, laundry.
6. Personal trekking and Climbing Equipment.
7. Any others expenses which are not mentioned on Price Includes section.
8. Garbage Deposit USD 4000.00 (sharing from climbing group). It is refundable; however, it will not be refundable if the climbers fail to take back their garbage to Namche Bazar and Kathmandu.
9. Excess baggage charges.
10. Sherpa tip pool (See below)
11. Internet and sat phone.
12. Costs incurred as a result of delays or events beyond the control of Kiwi Sherpa.
Recommended tipping and Sherpa bonuses are as follow:
-Allow $150-250 for general non-sherpa crew who stay at base camp.
- Allow $200-350 for sherpas who go up to the base camp.
-Summit climbing Sherpa US$ 1000 – 1500 per Sherpa.
You will need clothing for dining in Kathmandu, trekking in the humidity and heat, and to protect you from the cooler temperatures in the mountains. This list is designed to help you choose the right gear for the demands of this trek and are the minimum required for this trip.
You are expected to provide the following personal equipment. These items are mandatory for survival in the mountains, so make sure you have everything on the list.
The emphasis on equipment necessary for mountain travel follows two simple tenets: Lightweight and Functional. Since you will be carrying all of your gear and a portion of the group gear, the items you choose to take should be lightweight, dependable, and adaptable to a variety of extreme conditions. The quality of the equipment you choose has a lot to do with how warm, dry, and safe you will remain so be critical of quality and the proper fit of clothing. Comfort lends itself to a more enjoyable experience!
The layering system outlined is usually sufficient for most people, but if you tend to be colder, bring one extra medium layer such as a vest, which would be ideal for extra warmth around camp. When making the final decision as to what goes into your pack, remember that it's a fine science of taking just enough clothes and accessories to do the job, while not over-burdening yourself with items you probably will not use.
Cotton clothing must be avoided because it dries very slowly and is a poor insulator when wet. Instead, choose wool or synthetic fabrics that "wick" the sweat and moisture away from your skin to keep you much warmer.
- Alpine climbing harness. Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing.
- 2 locking carabiners. Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best, screw gate type recommended
- 3 regular carabiners. Lightweight; BD Hot wire are recommended.
- Ice axe w/leash. Light weight (Grivel Air tech, Black Diamond Raven, or Charlet Moser Snow Walker). Under 5’7” use 60cm; 5’7”- 6’2” use 65cm; over 6’2” use 70cm.
- Plastic Mountaineering boots (Koflach Degree, Lowa Civetta, or Scarpa Alpha) or Leather Double Mountaineering boots (La Sportiva Olympic Mons, Boreal GI or equivalent; must be mountaineering/crampon compatible)
- Crampons. Must be fit to plastic boots prior to trip, new-matic type recommended; include a simple repair kit (Grivel G12, Black Diamond Contact, or Charlet Moser Super 12)
- Adjustable trekking poles.
- Belay/rappel device (Figure 8 preferred)
- 2 cotton t-shirt.
- 1 polypropylene t-shirt.
- 2 long sleeve polypropylene shirts. Lightweight, light colored for sunny days.
- 2 women sports bras. Synthetic, no cotton!
- 1 Softshell. Marmot Dri-clime Wind Shirt, Patagonia Stretch Zephur or Krushell Jacket (R2 pullover acceptable).
- Down/synthetic sweater or vest. Patagonia Puffball Jacket or Sweater preferred; R4 Jacket acceptable
- Hard shell jacket with hood. Water proof and breathable. Gore-Tex or equivalent is best, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers.
- 1 expedition down parka with hood. This is probably your most important piece of clothing! It is important that your jacket is 700+ fill down, baffle construction (not sewn through seams) and has a thick insulated hood
You will require two systems: one glove system for lower on the mountain and a mitten overmitt system for the cold temperatures encountered on summit day.
- 2 pair liner gloves. Thin wool or polypropylene.
- 1 pair warm gloves. Fleece or wool.
- 1 pair expedition shell gloves.
- 1 pair modular expedition shell mitts. Or Pro Mitts. If they do not have wrist straps consider sewing one on so that you can either attach it to your jacket or cinch the strap to your wrist so that you do not lose your mittens in high winds.
- Warm hat. Wool or synthetic that covers your ears.
- Face mask.
- Shade hat or baseball cap.
- Glacier glasses. 100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case (e.g. Julbo or Cebe)
- 1 pair extra sunglasses (also with UV protection in case your 1st pair breaks).
- 1 ski goggles with UV protection
- If you require prescription glacier glasses, you can get your lenses modified to your prescription.
- 4 pair of liner socks. Polypropylene or Capilene.
- 3 pair lightweight trekking socks.
- 2 pair medium-heavy wool socks. Check boot fit with liner and wool socks on.
- 1 pair nylon shorts.
- 1 pair nylon pants for trekking and around camp.
- 2 pair lightweight long underwear bottoms
- 1 pair fleece pants with side zipper or “puff-ball pants”
- 1 pair soft shell pants (e.g. Patagonia Guide pants or OR Granite Pants. Schoeller fabrics).
- 1 pair of hard shell pants. Waterproof/breathable with full side zips, Gore-Tex or equivalent is best.
- 1 pair gaiters. Make sure they will fit over plastic boots (OR Crocodiles or equivalent).
- 1 pair down booties (optional).
- 1 pair trail shoes for the hike to base camp and use at camp
- 1 pair sandals or tennis shoes for Kathmandu and in camp
All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large plastic bags.
- 1 lightweight internal frame pack (approx 4,000 cubic inches).
- 1 daypack is optional for the approach hike, possible use on summit day and carry-on pack. If you plan to use it for your summit pack it must be large enough for your down jacket, misc. clothes, food and water. The Lowe Alpine Neutrino or Black Diamond Speed 28 are excellent, lightweight (16 oz.) choices.
- 1 large (7,500+cu.in.) duffel bag for gear, must be durable for use on pack animals
- Small padlock for duffel bag.
- 1 small duffel bag for luggage storage in Kathmandu. We will supply complimentary duffel/kit bag for the item you buy in Kathmandu and also for the storage.
- 1 down sleeping bag rated to -10 F (Gore Dryloft or similar fabric helps protect down and dark colors speed drying time)
- Sleeping pad. Full length closed cell foam (mandatory) and/or Therma-Rest for extra warmth and comfort
- 1 first-aid kit with ibuprofen and any other doctor recommended medications.
- Lip balm. At least SPF 20, 2 sticks. A string taped to the stick is helpful to hang around your neck
- Sunscreen. At least SPF 40
- Headlamp. Petzl Myobelt 3 or Black Diamond Polar Star.
- 3 Water bottles. 1 liter wide-mouth Nalgene (1 is a pee bottle).
- Hydration bladder with drinking tube for lower mountain (optional)
- 1 water bottle insulator.
- Plastic mug w/snap-on lid, 16 oz. or larger.
- Bowl and spoon. Plastic, small Tupperware works well. Lexan spoons are best.
- Pocket knife. Small Swiss-army type.
- Water purification. Iodine tablets or Polar-pure crystals
- Toiletry kit. Be sure to include toilet paper stored in a plastic bag.
- 3-4 Large plastic bags, for keeping miscellaneous gear dry.
- Nylon stuff sacks. For food and gear storage (OR has a good selection); large Ziplocs are useful also.
- Camp towel.
- Ear plugs.
- Hand wipes.
- 1 small stainless steel thermos (optional).
- Favorite snack foods (no more than 2 pounds).
- Paperback books, cards, Walkman, etc.
- Binoculars (optional for viewing the route from the lower camps).
- Camera. 1 light weight point & shoot on the mountain, 1 large SLR type is optional for the trek in and base camp.
- Fanny pack or wallet for travel documents, money & passport.